Joplin Humane Society

by U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service – Midwest Region under CC BY 

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Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine’s skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.

When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog’s sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog’s body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.

Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine’s skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.

If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician’s pliers.

No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.

If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog’s tongue so it won’t slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.

Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn’t poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.

by nancyg48 under CC BY 

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While a common question among pet owners seems to be, “What is the best dog food to feed my dog,” they often neglect to ask the equally important question, “How much should I feed my dog?”

There are some common tenets of feeding which are vital to every dog’s health, regardless of breed.

The one fundamental rule when feeding adult dogs is that the less they eat, the healthier they’ll be and the longer they’ll live. Obviously they need a balanced and complete diet. And they shouldn’t be permitted to get excessively thin or fat.

But nearly all pet owners overfeed. And nearly every animal will consume twenty percent more food than it actually needs. The proper way to feed your dog is to find the amount that will maintain your pet’s weight, and feed exactly that amount daily. This is the most important rule of feeding your dog.

If your dog is overweight, you will need to put it on a diet until it reaches a proper body weight, and then find the appropriate amount of food it takes to maintain that weight.

Pet owners often agonize over putting their precious pets on a diet, but an obese dog isn’t any happier about being fat than an obese person is. This feeling of distress over forcing an overweight dog to reduce its weight is based on the impression that starvation is painful. However it truly isn’t painful as long as there is a reserve of food stored in the body fat. Feeding a bit of protein and carbohydrate daily to stimulate the metabolism and burn the fat will cause healthy weight loss without any danger of the development of acidosis. Hunger pangs are really just habit pangs. Any pain associated with them is imagined only.

It is far crueler to overfeed your dog than it is to put it on a diet. Obesity shortens the life of the pet, and makes it lethargic in nature. It can make both the dog and the owner unhappy, and as the pet grows older, the affect of the excess weight will become more pronounced.

The following amounts are some general estimates of how much dry dog food is appropriate to feed considering the healthy weight of a dog. Considerations for factors such as how much exercise your dog gets and whether or not the dog is overweight will vary these amounts.

Toy breeds of dogs, generally weighing up to 11 pounds, should get 3-5 ounces of dry dog food per day.

Small dog breeds (Jack Russells, Beagles, etc.), weighing 11-22 pounds, should get 4-6 ounces of food per day.

Medium dog breeds (Bassett Hound, Springer Spaniel, etc.), weighing 22-55 pounds, should have 10-12 ounces of food each day.

Large dog breeds (German Shepherd, Labrador, Boxer, etc.), weighing 55-77 pounds, should get 16-18 ounces of food per day.

Giant dog breeds (Great Dane, Saint Bernard, etc.), weighing over 77 pounds, should get 24-30 ounces of dry dog food each day.

All dogs should have a fresh supply of water available at all times, regardless of how much you feed your dog.

by peteaylward under CC BY-SA 

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The dog first aid principles that the dog owner should master are relatively few and simple in practice, but are essential skills in the case of an emergency and could save the life of your pet. Recovery time after an injury, complete healing as opposed to permanent disability or scarring, or even survival of the injured dog at all, can often depend on the treatment received immediately after being hurt.

Shock – Any serious injury—burns, fractures, deep lacerations, even dog fights—can induce shock in a dog. The most common symptom of shock in a dog is a semi-oblivious yet anxious state. The nervous system becomes depressed, sometimes severe enough to cause complete immobility. Sometimes, though in relatively few cases, the dog may display a quite opposite affect of nervous excitement. In all cases, a dog in shock will have a slow weak pulse, and shallow respiration. Dogs recovering from shock will often develop a rapid pulse and high body temperature.

The treatment for shock in dogs is to cover the animal to bring the temperature up to normal. Give the dog a stimulant, such as coffee, to raise the heart rate, and keep the animal calm so that it rests. Gentle petting will generally instill a relaxed state. Recovery generally occurs in one or two hours.

Heat Stroke – Dogs are the most susceptible of all pets to heat stroke. Bulldogs and obese dogs are the most common victims. Dogs with thick coats should be clipped in the summer to protect them against the heat.

Panting is a normal method for dogs to reduce body temperature, however sharp and continuous panting can indicate heat stroke. The tongue can turn purple and the dog will seem unable to catch its breath.

When your dog is displaying symptoms of heat stroke, you must lower the body temperature of the animal. The way the body cools itself is by evaporating water. Lay the dog on a flat surface and pour water over him until his coat is completely soaked. Place an electric fan near the dog, and direct the air straight at him. As the water evaporates, add more. Take the dog’s temperature occasionally until it lowers to 101 degrees Fahrenheit, which is normal. This method should result in a 5-7 degree drop in temperature in about 30 minutes. When the dog’s temperature returns to normal, dry him off and keep him out of the heat.

If an electric fan is not available, immerse the dog in a tub of cold water.

Hit by a Car – When a dog is struck by a vehicle, you should restrain him and begin treating for shock. Check the gums to see if he is losing blood too quickly. If the gums have a gray or white appearance, the dog likely has injured an organ and is bleeding internally. If this is the case, then stretch the dog out and have someone assist you by holding the front and hind legs. Wrap long strips of bandage torn from a bed sheet or similar material around his torso tightly in a girdle or corset-like fashion. Continue to wrap until you have created a good firm support. Be sure the bandaging lies flat against the dog’s body and doesn’t bunch up when he moves. The bandages must create a long cylinder which holds the internal organs still. Keeping the organs immobile will assist in allowing a blood clot to form and slow or stop the internal bleeding. Do everything you are able to keep the animal still until a veterinarian arrives. Do not move the dog from the accident scene if there are signs of internal bleeding. A dog can bleed to death very quickly.

Knowing how to administer dog first aid before you find yourself in a situation where you need it can save the life of your pet. Preventing situations that may cause your dog to be injured is even better.